stoned face dolly, article and recipes

[Davey Boy 2.0]

first encountered Bob Russell six years ago when he ran the 28-seat Stoneface Dolly's restaurant on Bronson Avenue, originally opened by someone else in 1996. Mr. Russell bought the 700-square-foot place in late 1999 and developed an interesting, eclectic menu featuring such tasty morsels as Thai linguine or black bean penne, California chicken and grilled salmon with couscous.

Not your ordinary chain-restaurant fare, here the chips on the side were deep-fried sweet potatoes and the bruschetta was made with homemade focaccia.

Stoneface Dolly's still makes its own whole-wheat bread with molasses and cinnamon, which you can take home at $3.95 for a loaf that weighs maybe three pounds.

And Mr. Russell's wife Karen still makes desserts.

Over time, Mr. Russell built a loyal following, so he decided to branch out.

To that end, he took a bold step last May by opening a second 2,300-square-foot Stoneface Dolly's on Preston Street. The new location was spacious by comparison, with 50 seats in three times the area.

What happened was a shock to Mr. Russell and his manager on Bronson Avenue, Caroline Duhaime: His customers migrated to the new location on Preston Street, leaving behind the original location. Management anticipated a dip in business on Bronson as customers checked out the new digs; that much was to be expected. But they grew concerned after a few weeks when it didn't appear some patrons were going to return any time soon.

"When the new place opened, there was some confusion among our regular clientele who thought we closed the original location," Ms. Duhaime says. "Things definitely slowed down on Bronson. We thought we would have maintained our regular clientele, so we did not anticipate the dropoff.

"We felt the office workers and neighbourhood residents around Preston Street would patronize the new place, while the Bronson location would carry on with its established customers and perhaps even increase with runoff business from the new location."

But it didn't happen.

Says Mr. Russell: "I didn't think the migration of our customers from Bronson to Preston would be as dramatic as it was.

"So we felt we had to re-invent ourselves, keeping in mind that our breakfast and lunch was our bread and butter. So we came up with a new menu on Bronson with a lot of customer input and testing."

Customer input was critical. The result was impressive. "Essentially, we kept the Stoneface Dolly's classics that everyone loved, things like our jambalaya, our green Thai pasta and our lamb burger at lunch. But we dropped the tarragon chicken, the black bean pasta, the spinach salad," Ms. Duhaime says.

It fell upon head chef Gord Toop to "upgrade and update" the menu with "more flavours and a fusion twist." To that end, tapas were added as appetizers -- everything from shrimp with homemade marinara to caramelized vegetables with goat cheese and eggplant spread. Vegetarian options were offered. Salads were given an Asian twist with baby corn, snowpeas, eggplant, bok choy and peppers served on rice noodles and a bed of spinach.

There's now a Caribbean fruit salad with mangos and glazed pineapple, for example.

But no less important was the way Ms. Duhaime and Mr. Toop went about making the changes. In short, they listened.

Both locations still offer what Mr. Russell describes as the kind of comfort food you would prepare for guests at home. But the smaller Bronson location gives Ms. Duhaime and Mr. Toop a chance to offer more exotic dishes and varied specials that do not appear on the Preston Street menu.

"We tried new items as specials and got feedback," Ms. Duhaime says. "We amended recipes based on the feedback, and we actually showed the menu to our customers before the final printing."

The new menu was launched on Feb. 10, and the goods news is the customers are back, with both locations drawing on a different clientele for business.

"We're a family restaurant where 30-somethings with kids want something better than supper at a big-box. But the service and the food have to be spot-on," Mr. Russell says. "The ambience can be quirky, as we are, but you've got to be professional and offer a whole package."

Small wonder that Stoneface Dolly's on Bronson still attracts diners from as far away as Kingston and Deep River --people who drop by whenever they're in Ottawa.

Recipes that appear here illustrate some of the new arrivals. In fact, even at this writing, the chef phoned to increase the amount of gingerroot and garlic in his Orange and Ginger Stir-Fry on Rice Noodles as a result of comments from customers.

Try the Warm Phyllo Pastry Stuffed with Brie and Chutney, an interesting appetizer that's perfect for sharing, with full-flavoured homemade chutney and brie cheese tucked inside an envelop of flaky pastry.

And the African Peanut Chicken or Firm Tofu offers the vegetarian option topped with a savoury peanut sauce.

These are the recipes that keep the regulars coming back. Try them, and see why.

- - -

Orange and Ginger Stir-Fry on Rice Noodles

Serves 4 to 6

For the sauce:

- Zest from 1 orange, grated

- 3 cups (750 mL) orange juice

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) fresh gingerroot, peeled and chopped fine

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) garlic, minced

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) soy sauce

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) fresh cilantro, chopped

- 4 fresh green onions, chopped

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) sesame oil

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) sesame seeds

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) cornstarch (if required to thicken)

For the stir-fry:

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) vegetable oil

- 1 cup (250 mL) each, snow peas, baby corn, eggplant, bok choy, peppers, cut to bite-size pieces where necessary

- One 450-gram package rice noodles

- Bean sprouts, to garnish

1. To make the sauce, combine all ingredients except cornstarch in a saucepan; bring to simmer on medium heat and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. If required, thicken sauce with 2 tablespoons (25 mL) cornstarch mixed with an equal amount of water and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes longer.

2. In a wok or large frypan, heat vegetable oil and stir-fry Asian vegetable mixture on high heat until tender but still crunchy, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add 3 cups (750 mL) of the orange sauce and cook 4 minutes longer on medium heat.

3. In salted, boiling water, cook rice noodles according to package directions. Drain. To serve, place noodles in a bowl, top with vegetables and sauce, and garnish with bean sprouts.

Warm Phyllo Pastry Stuffed with Brie and Chutney

Serves 4 to 6 as appetizer

For the chutney:

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) vegetable oil

- 2 medium onions, chopped

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) garlic, chopped fine

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh gingerroot, peeled and chopped fine

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) mustard seeds

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) chili flakes

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground cardamom

- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) allspice

- Salt and pepper, to taste

- 1/2 cup (125 mL) raisins, plumped in hot water

- 2 cups (500 mL) red wine vinegar

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice

- 3 cups (750 mL) mixed chopped fruit (pineapple, honeydew, cantaloupe, apples)

- 11/2 cups (375 mL) brown sugar

To assemble phyllo appetizer:

- 1/4 pound (1 stick/1/2 cup/125 mL) butter

- 1 pound (450 g) brie cheese

- 6 sheets phyllo pastry (about 1/4 package)

1. To make the chutney, heat oil and cook onions in a large saucepan on medium heat until soft, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and all spices; cook 2 minutes longer.

2. Drain and add raisins, red wine vinegar and lemon juice. Add mixed chopped fruit and brown sugar, and stir until blended. Simmer, uncovered, on low heat until dark and thick consistency, about 2 hours.

3. To assemble the appetizer, melt butter in saucepan. Slice brie 1/4-inch (6-mm) thick. Place 1 sheet of phyllo on a baking sheet and brush it with melted butter. Place another phyllo sheet on top, and repeat for a total of

6 phyllo layers. Place sliced brie in the centre of the pastry in the shape of a rectangle measuring 4 by 6 inches (10 by 15 cm). Lightly cover the brie with chutney, then fold the corners of the pastry to the centre to secure the brie and chutney inside. Brush the top with melted butter and bake in preheated oven at 350 degreesF (180 degreesC) until golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes.

African Peanut Chicken, or Firm Tofu

Serves 4 to 6

For the peanut sauce:

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) sesame oil

- 1/2 tablespoon (7 mL) curry powder

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) red Thai curry paste

- One 14-ounce (398-mL) can coconut cream

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) peanut butter

- Pinch, crushed chili pepper or flakes

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) each, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, saffron

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) lemon juice

For the rice:

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) vegetable oil

- 1 medium-size onion, chopped

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) crushed garlic

- 1 cup (250 mL) basmati rice

- 2 cups (500 mL) coconut cream

- Salt and pepper, to taste

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) shredded coconut (optional)

- Pinch, cardamom seeds

For the chicken/tofu:

- 4 to 6 boneless chicken breasts, or substitute 2 pounds (900 g) firm tofu sliced 1/2-inch (12-mm) thick

- 1 cup (250 mL) crushed peanuts

1. To prepare the sauce, heat oil and saute curry powder and Thai curry paste, about 60 seconds in a frypan. Add remaining ingredients and simmer about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. For the rice, heat oil and saute chopped onion in a medium pot. Add crushed garlic and stir constantly for 1 minute. Add basmati rice and stir to coat rice with oil. Add coconut cream, salt and pepper, shredded coconut (if using) and cardamom. Bring to rolling boil for 3 minutes, then remove from heat, cover and let stand 15 minutes. Fluff with fork before serving.

3. For the chicken (or tofu), roll meat or tofu in crushed peanuts to coat. Bake in preheated oven at 350 degreesF (180 degreesC) until done (no trace of pink remains in chicken and juices run clear), about 12 minutes. Serve with coconut basmati rice, sauce spooned on top, and seasonal vegetables.

[Ms.Huxtable]

Thanks Dave. Admitedly I haven't gone to the Bronson Street location since the Preston one opened. I guess we'll have to check it out again.

[Davey Boy 2.0]

us neither

[Ms.Huxtable]

Bouche and I went back to the old Stone Face Dollies on our anniversary and ordered from the tapas menu. It was fantastic. Shrimp, smoked salmon, scallops, the brie and chutney pastry (above), bread and hummas and something else I'm forgetting at the moment. It all came together on a platter and we shared. Every single bite was TERRIFIC and we were too stuffed for dessert.

Yum, yum.