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acoustic guitar question


snarfmaster C

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in a pinch I have substituted an A for a D or a D for a G but would'nt recommend it for extended use, probably not very good for your guitar neck over time... kind of depends on what guage the whole set is and finding something that makes sense in there if you have old strings (preferably of a heavier or lighter gauge) around

you can just kind of eye it up as to what used string will work best... fuk around, see what happens... at worst you break a string you're not using anymore anyways... its your guitar, go nuts! have fun!

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What guage strings are you using? If you're using extra-lights or something then try moving to to lights or mediums or something. You might also want to consider the cause of the breaks. I've seen circumstances where a 'nicked' bridge is contributing to string breaking.

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Good call Willy. Unless you've dramatically changed your playing style Ms. Freak there's no reason those strings should be breaking. I suspect that they are breaking at the bridge (near your right hand), leaving pretty much all the string dangling from the headstock. If so, you probably just need a little bridge filing. Would likely be really cheap and save you money in no time (on the popped strings).

Writing any new songs? Looking forward to that benefit concert.

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i've already switched to medium gauge strings. i'm pretty sure they're breaking because i'm always changing the tunings and i don't always drop the low e string low enough :( my bridge could use a fix-up, but the strings break at the tuning pegs. i was just wondering if i should use a thicker or thinner string to replace one in a pinch. i'm taking from paisley's post that thicker is the way to go.

velvet - unfortunately, advance ticket sales for the benefit concert were too poor so i've been forced to postpone the show.

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First thing is to figure out where the strings are breaking; at the bridge saddle, in the nut slot, at the tuning machine post hole, etc. I see all of these problems on a daily basis, and if you are already using medium gauge strings, you probably don't want to go any heavier. Check the saddle for nicks and burrs (ideally, it would be smooth, maybe slightly worn by each string). Do those strings bind in the nut slots when tuning? If so, a luthier could clean up the string-nut slots to get rid of that friction. When re-stringing; once through the hole, two or three wraps going down the post of the E and A strings is usually sufficient. For the D,G,B,and E, however, wrap the strings in a smooth spiral enough times to get below the edge of the post-hole. This way, the tension rests on a smooth, rounded surface (rather than an edge) and should allow for full string life and ease of tuning. :)

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This is really anal retentive but Mark from Folkway music in Guelph taught me that when you re-string your guitar, you should wind the first loop ABOVE the tuner hole and the rest below. Apparently this helps keep your string in tune by creating better tension. May or may not be true but I've always followed his advice and haven't broken a string in years (Norman guitars! woohoo!)

On another note, if you guys want to see some sick (like, cavern sick!) guitars check out his latest consignments

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Yup, that works too, especially with cylindical posts. Just be sure not to cross the string over itself (on the post). If your posts are tapered (narrow at the hole,kinda like apple cores), it really doesn't matter, since each successive turn helps to bind the previous one. (see original reply for full info)

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