My Trip To The Deep South PART ONE: Nashville

[Jaimoe]

So, I've been back for a few days and needed time to compose my thoughts regarding my trip to the Deep South. I had an interesting time and I feel compelled to share some of my observations with you all. I hope that this will entice some of you to head down to the deep south in the future. I've taken lots of great shots, but I don't know how to post them yet - I'll try to figure something out soon. The photos below are from the web.

Nashville to Clarksdale Mississippi and the Mississippi delta to Robert Johnson's grave to Memphis: PART ONE

NASHVILLE - Feb 13th-16th

I went to Nashville for the first three days of a week-long deep south jaunt. Nashville is a great place to explore, especially if you want to see authentic rockabilly or honky-tonk on a daily basis. Nashville is really a small city disguised as a much bigger one - the downtown core is more compact than the metro 1.2 million would have you believe. No one seems to live in the core, which basically exists as a place for entertainment and work. At least in the " off-season " the town empties-out at night, which isn't surprising since I didn't see any residential apartment buildings, condos or neighbourhoods in the core. The main entertainment drag in Nashville is a SIX LANE(!) street called Broadway Avenue, which is packed on both sides with colourful honky-tonk and rockabilly bars that have live music going all day and into the night. This is also the best restaurant strip in the city. BBQ-ing is BIG in the South and pulled pork sandwiches and ribs are served in virtually every diner/restaurant. Vegetarians and weight-conscious travelers will not fare well in the south. Red meat and fried foods dominate menus. Vegetarian alternatives DO NOT exist and chicken dishes are hard to find or deep-fried unhealthy. As a white meat/seafood eating vegetarian, my traveling partner and lovely new fiancé Vicki had some tough times in most restaurants.

On my first day in Nashville, Vicki and I wandered down Broadway accompanied part-way by a street-person from Brooklyn NY who claimed to be a former NCAA basketball star from Virginia Tech. Indeed! He pointed us to some great edifices on Broadway, none as attention-grabbing as Ernest Tubb's Record Shop.

Inside, this store's walls are lined with autographed pictures of almost every country star imaginable ( along with some of Ernest's suits, hats and boots at the back ) and Tubb's store must have the most comprehensive country selection of any store in the world. Country, western and bluegrass are the only music types you'll find there and like any good county-based shop, they have an ample cassette section for people who still drive " big-old " pick-up trucks.

Music beckoned and Vicki and I had a tough time deciding which bar to go to since all the music floating out of the bars sounded exciting and inviting. The great thing about catching the performers on Broadway during the late afternoon is that there is never a cover, but tips are welcome. So we decided to flip a coin, and fate selected for us the bar Robert's Western World and the band Starlight Drifters.

Man, I loved their sound. Starlight Drifters are a three-piece band that play old-school honky-tonk, but with Junior Brown flair and humour. Their flashy and gifted guitarist/singer Chris Cosello tore through solos that often left the HANDFUL of people in attendance giddy: He was really good on the pedal steel too. Check 'em out here http://starlightdrifters.com/home.htm. Maybe they might be able to be lured north? Bouche? Anyone?

Day two found us heading to The Country Music Hall Of Fame which is just a block away from Broadway, almost behind the Gaylord Entertainment Centre. This place is worth the music trip alone.

My favourite thing there ( of many ) was seeing the Band Of Gypsies bass practice amp that both Billy Cox and Hendrix used while recording demos for The Band Of Gypsies ( donated by Cox who still lives in Nashville ). Also, Jimi's old Blue Flames vest was on display - an old relic from his Nashville club days ( all part of a Nashville R&B exhibit ). My jaw dropped when I saw the Hendrix stuff. Hendrix wasn't the only highlight. The Hall has literally something for everyone, from Maybelle Carter and Jimmy Rogers guitars to Hank Sr.'s white suit ( with all the music notes embroidered on it ) to at least 30 newer and vintage Chet Atkins guitars to an Elvis owned gold-plated Cadillac to a southern rock showcase with an Allman Brothers gig contract from 1970, signed by band leader Duane Allman. ( Note: There was also a Skynyrd tour shirt worn by Ronnie Van Zandt and a vintage ABB w/ Cowboy gig poster ). Even newer memorabilia like Loretta Lynn's dress from the cover of Van Lear Rose was displayed - well placed next to a print of that album cover. She's beautiful. The Hall Of Fame is a must stop for every type of music fan or 20th century history buff.

We stayed at the Best Western in famed Music Row area just outside the main city core. Music Row consists of a few blocks and is famous because it is the area where all the great recording studios, publishing and country record companies reside. Legendary RCA Studio B is in Music Row and is an unassuming white building which surprised me considering it's history. Elvis, Ray Price, Charlie Pride, Dolly Parton, the Everly Brothers etc... all recorded some if not all of their biggest hits at Studio B and virtually all recordings were orchestrated/engineered by Chet Atkins and partner Owen Bradley. This is also THE place where The Nashville Sound originated. The guided tour of Studio B is a must for music fans - I loved walking down the halls and looking around the studio. I felt like I was stepping back in time.

When in Nashville, visiting the Grand Ole Opry is a necessity. Unfortunately, neither the newer Gaylord Opryland or the original Ryman Auditorium Opry locations had concerts scheduled during our 3-day stay. We missed Alison Krauss and Del McCoury by ONE DAY! ( Note: if you are going to Nashville, plan on going on a weekend since The Opry seems to shut down on many of the weekdays ). As I mentioned, there are two Opry venues. The original Opry is in the downtown, held in a converted church called the Ryman. It moved to the Gaylord Opryland Resort in 1974. Ryman lay vacant for many years and fortunately was restored in 1994. We toured Ryman and it is an impressive building. We were also privy to see the Ryman stage being set-up for a tribute concert for Merle Kilgore, the recently deceased country-music manager and acclaimed songwriter of such hits as Johnny Cash's " Ring Of Fire " and Johnny Horton's " Johnny Reb ". The staff at the Ryman were understandably somber since many if not all knew Kilgore. The Ryman generates much of the vibe of the downtown music scene and once you visit it, you quickly learn why. This building is the soul of Nashville's music identity.

By contrast, we traveled 20 minutes from our hotel to the Gaylord Opryland Resort and the vibe there is totally different than Ryman. The newer venue is cool in an enclosed sort of way, but it's located across from the Opry Mills Mall's parking lot. Hardly inspiring. Incidentally, this mall is from the same people who brought Toronto the new and gaudy Vaughan Mills Mall. Opryland is basically the embodiment of an urban-sprawl, suburban theme-park. The only way you can get to Opryland is by car and has little to offer unless you want to shop in a mall after a show. I was very disappointed with Opryland. Go to the Ryman instead.

Later that night we felt bluegrass had been a little neglected so we went to The Station Inn,

which one of the locals told me is the best bluegrass club in Nashville - and with pictures of Bill Monroe and Del McCoury plastered all over the walls, who am I to argue? The club is on a deserted section of 12th Avenue, which isn't too far from The Country Music Hall Of Fame. We caught a bluegrass/swing hybrid band called The Time Jumpers: A really large yet talented band, with excellent singers and musicians playing catchy originals. Check-out their website: http://www.thetimejumpers.com/.

On our last night in Nashville, we decided to check-out a place that is synonymous with promoting Nashville's best discovered and undiscovered songwriters and musicians: The Bluebird Cafe. It's located in a stripmall just outside the campus of the Vanderbilt University, not too far by car from Music Row. The Bluebird is a serious place. I was pre-warned that noise other than applause and the music itself is not tolerated at the cafe. This warning proved true. As we entered the Bluebird you could almost hear a pin drop. But what a cool place. The performers are arranged in a circle in the middle of the room and they tell stories, sing songs and sometimes jam together. The singer-songwriters we saw that night were ridiculously talented and proved to me why Nashville is considered the best songwriter cities in the world. This place is for serious artists and fans only.

Overall, Nashville is a great city. Blues and rock have scenes and sports and the arts are important to the vibrancy of the city. One thing worth mentioning is that the NHL strike is big news in Nashville. The Gaylord Centre ( where the NHL Predators play ) is on Broadway in the core, and the bars have grown accustomed to hockey business in the music off-season - so says a guitar salesman at Gruhn's Guitar Shop. Who am I to argue?

COMING UP NEXT: CLARKSDALE MISSISSIPPI & THE QUEST TO FIND ROBERT JOHNSON'S GRAVES

[Esau]

Great read Jaimoe,that sounds like an awesome time already.I've been looking forward to reading about your trip.I'm glad you guys had a great time.

Thanks for posting that.

Cheers

[Basher]

I had a GREAT time in Nashville on a two night business trip last year. I got to see the Greyhounds in a tiny bar, and found LOTS of yummy vegetarian food. I would love to visit there again soon.

[bokonon]

yummy vegetarian food

:: :: :: that's awesome!

your pics are amazing too, glad you had a good time!

[Jaimoe]

I had a good time, but they ain't my pics. I don't know how to set-up pics via a website. I have tons of pics in my hard-drive, but I assume I have to uplink them in order to post them on this site.

I'm hesitant to write the remaining aricles for my trip since the pictures are really good and I want to use them to enhance my stories.

[Velvet]

Nice. Thanks.

[TheGoodRev]

Right the f on man, I forgot you were going on this trip. I have a very similar trip planned for the month of June. Not 100% yet but everything is going as planned...would love read more about what you're seeing and what you dig.

[Jaimoe]

Hey thanks.

I've just started to sketch out my Clarksdale/Mississippi Delta Blues/Robert Johnson Gravesite story. Needless to say that I found that area and related music history the most rewarding and fascinating of my trip. Memphis was great too, but in more of a tourist way. There not a lot of " tourist " existing in the northern delta.

I'd go back to the Mississippi Delta in a second, only to find the elusive delta blues.

[RayRay]

Your trip sounds amazing, that area is soooo rich in muscial history, I'm slightly jealous of you right now.

[bouche]

Jaimoe AND Velvet,

I can provide youse guys some temporary space for your photos.

[Velvet]

Just let me know what I gotta do Bouche.

[c-towns]

"As a white meat/seafood eating vegetarian"

thats an intersting vegitarian...

[Jaimoe]

There are apparently many " types " of vegetarians. I've met a few including my fiance who won't eat pork or beef, but will eat white meat and fish. I've met other " vegetarians " who just eat fish. I've also met " bad " vegans ( not following a strict vegan philosophy and diet ) etc...

I think I'm going to eat a steak today.

[c-towns]

I dont eat fish, can I call myself a vegitarian?

[c-towns]

vegetarian;

eater of fruits and grains and nuts; someone who eats no meat or fish or (often) any animal products

[Jaimoe]

You'd be surprised what modern day vegetarians will eat.

[c-towns]

sorry, I just hate people that call them self vegetarians and they eat meat.

[c-towns]

no offence of course.

[Jaimoe]

I read a Toronto Star aricle a few weeks ago examining the various levels and categories of vegetarianism. A quick Google should provide with most of the current vegetarian levels: http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=different+types+of+vegetarians&btnG=Google+Search&meta=

[c-towns]

still don't see your kind of vegetarian there. lets get back to your trip topic and lets never fight again.

[bouche]

As far as I understand if you are eating anythign that came from a living mammal, reptile, or fishy, you're not a vegetarian.

What the hell does this have to do with nashville?

Oh yeah, BBQ in the south is a type of food, not an action or a cooking device.

Southerner #1: Wha' you wanna havin' fer lunch Big Earl? Chineeeese, eye-talian, tex-mex, or some bar-beee-cue?

Southerner #2: I reckon' that I sure could go fer some BAR-BEEE-CUE. I had chineeeese last week at Hung Lo's Big Eatin' Buffet.

[Thumpin]

Jaimoe, excellent reporting! Great read, look forward to the next installment.

regarding pictures. Try out www.flickr.com you can set up an album there and post pictures from your account to blogs, msgboards etc. See what you think. Thanks again for the read.

[Booche]

Jaimoe, I can also host them if you email me your shots. I will let you know when they are ready and give you the url's.

Great read Dave. Good times.

[guigsy]

one of my favourite photographers did a road trip photo series based entirely around BBQ joints in the south... not sure if its still up on his site, but check it out anyways, he's a great photog..... www.ericlarson.com

and Jaimoe, way to go, dude! this is pretty awesome, i like the idea of travelling to the deep southern states... thanks for sharing your adventures.

[Jaimoe]

I'm going to try to finish my Mississippi Delta story by mid-week. It's difficult to write.